This deserves a post to itself! I am notorious for blowing the end of routes. One move before the end my arms are so tired I pump off the wall. I get through the crux no problem and then, rather than finishing the route, I fall.

I’ve said it before: Every Move Counts. This is as true for the end of your routes as it is for the crux.

I don’t care if it’s easy or if it’s hard—you can fall anywhere.

When I get to the anchors on a route I am still working, or close to sending, I take, lower down to the last rest, and give it a few runs on top rope. You want to have the ending on lock down so that you can run it blindfolded, or when you’re getting really tired.

None of this I’ll-figure-it-out-as-I-go shit. That sloppy attitude is for on-sight climbers.

Once you’ve been around for a while you learn that you can’t leave it to chance.

In the realm of projecting, we don’t leave anything to chance. We rehearse everything.

During the send, you gotta know the end. Put in the effort, figure it out. If nothing else, you’ll feel calm, cool, and collected as you make your way to the chains.