Ideal Conditions

Coffee and Mittens

 

 

The ideal conditions in climbing are those elusive moments when the stars align: we are at peak fitness, have our project completely wired, have sending temps for a couple weeks, the humidity is perfect, the route doesn’t have any wet holds, and there’s a subtle breeze.

But this window is small and unlikely, and in many years it doesn’t come at all. We train for the whole season, getting ready for the one day everything is perfect … and it never arrives.

I know that ideal conditions exist, because I’ve experienced them before, but I also know that I can’t wait around for them.

You have to show up and hustle every day, with no regard for conditions (well, watch out for lightning and other unsafe weather). You have to learn to climb your routes when they’re wet, when it’s 90 degrees and you’re sweating so badly you slide off the holds, and when it’s 45 degrees and you can’t feel your fingers.

The mantra I mentioned in a previous post, “Rain or shine you gotta put in the time,” helps me combat the urge to bail when conditions suck.

Rain, sun, snow, grumpy wife … it doesn’t matter. I have a training program.

If that magical day comes, and you get perfect temps and the right breeze at the right time, your project will feel easier than it ever has. Mentally you will know that you have done it in worse conditions, and because of that you will be able to relax. You won’t over grip, you won’t be sweating and slipping off of holds. If you keep showing up and working through the months when things feel terrible, you will make it to the other side, and that’s when you’ll be glad for every day that you showed up.